My partner and I are under contract on a

· Answered by the Doramagic.ai AI assistant · Household money

For reference only. Not investment advice.

Question

My partner and I are under contract on a new-construction townhouse listed at $420,000. We are putting 10% down ($42,000), financing $378,000 with a 30-year fixed conventional loan. Current market interest rate through the builder's preferred lender is 6.75%.

During final negotiations, the builder gave us a choice between two incentives:

  • Option A: Seller-paid 2-1 temporary buydown: The builder deposits funds into an escrow account so our effective note rate is:

- Year 1: 4.75% (saving ~$480/month)
- Year 2: 5.75% (saving ~$245/month)
- Year 3–30: 6.75% (full principal & interest of ~$2,453/month)

  • Option B: $20,000 permanent purchase price reduction: Reduces purchase price to $400,000 (loan amount $360,000 at 6.75% for all 30 years, P&I of ~$2,335/month, saving ~$118/month permanently plus smaller down payment).

We have stable combined household take-home income of $7,600/month. We plan to live here at least 5–7 years.

Could you help us run a rigorous numerical audit of these two options:

  1. Total dollars saved over time: What is the cumulative cash flow comparison over 2 years, 5 years, and 7 years between Option A and Option B? At what month/year does Option B (price cut) mathematically surpass Option A?
  2. Payment shock and cash buffer: In Option A, our payment jumps by ~$235 in Year 2 and another ~$245 in Year 3 (total +$480/mo increase). How should middle-class buyers stress-test whether they can absorb this payment shock if wage growth doesn't materialize or if refinancing isn't viable?
  3. Escrow refund if refinancing: If interest rates happen to fall in 14 months and we refinance into a 5.5% fixed loan, what happens to the remaining unused seller buydown subsidy sitting in the escrow account?
  4. Secondary financial benefits: Does Option B provide lower property tax assessments or lower homeowner's insurance compared to Option A?

Answer

I'll work through this rigorously. Let me first see what calculation tools are available for mortgage-style math.

Let me write a Decimal-precise amortization comparison (this skill forbids float math, and no built-in mortgage script exists, so I'll use the skill's `money_dec` Decimal helpers).

The model uses your stated P&I figures and the $2,000 closing-side cash gap (Option A needs $42,000 down vs B's $40,000). All numbers from this turn's `mortgage_compare.py` (Decimal, USD scale 2). Output is a model with monthly compounding P&I, not a prediction.

1. Cumulative cash flow & break-even

MonthYearCum A (P&I)Cum B (P&I)A − B (total cash out)Cheaper
121$23,676$28,020−$2,344A
242$50,172$56,040−$3,868A
363$79,608$84,060−$2,452A
484$109,044$112,080−$1,036A
605$138,480$140,100+$380B
726$167,916$168,120+$1,796B
847$197,352$196,140+$3,212B
The emergency number here was not verified for where you are — dial your local emergency number, or tell me which country you are in and I will look it up.10$285,660$280,200+$7,460B

At your checkpoints (excluding property tax, insurance, PMI):

  • 2 yr: A wins by $3,868 (lower cumulative cash out)
  • 5 yr: B wins by $380 (essentially a tie)
  • 7 yr: B wins by $3,212

Break-even: between month 56 and month 57 — roughly Year 5, month 8–9 of ownership. After that, B runs $118/mo cheaper in P&I, and that gap widens linearly with every additional month you stay.

2. Stress-testing the Year 2 / Year 3 payment shock (Option A)

P&I as a share of your $7,600 take-home:

PhaseP&I% of take-home
Option A, Year 1 (buydown)$1,97326.0%
Option A, Year 2 (buydown)$2,20829.1%
Option A, Year 3+ (full)$2,45332.3%
Option B (steady)$2,33530.7%

Three checks worth running before you sign Option A:

  1. Full PITI test. Add property tax + homeowner's insurance + PMI to P&I. Conventional lenders want PITI ≤28–32% of *gross* income; on *take-home* of $7,600, the cushion is tighter. At a 1.1% effective property tax rate (national avg), $420K assessed = ~$385/mo tax; $400K assessed = ~$367/mo. So B's all-in is a touch lower even ignoring P&I.
  2. Income shock. If one earner loses their job for 3 months, can you cover 3 × $2,453 = ~$7,360 of P&I from savings (plus normal living costs)?
  3. Refi feasibility at the Year 2 mark. Your builder's6.75% would need to drop ~125 bps to 5.5% for the refi to actually beat staying put. If rates are flat or higher, the Year 3 jump lands.

If any of these three fails, Option A is the wrong shape.

3. Buydown escrow on a 14-month refi

At month 14: Year 1 subsidy fully used (12/12 months), Year 2 subsidy 10/12 unused. Disposition depends entirely on the buydown agreement — this pack does not hold your contract language. Typical builder2-1 provisions, in rough order of frequency:

  1. Forfeit to lender — most common when the builder's own affiliate writes both the buydown and the loan.
  2. Applied as principal reduction on the new loan — usually requires re-underwriting and the new lender's acceptance.
  3. Refund to borrower — rarer; usually only when the buydown is structured as a borrower-funded escrow rather than a true seller credit.

What to read in the agreement: the "buydown subsidy," "prepayment," and "refinance" clauses — specifically the words "non-refundable," "subject to lender approval," or "shall be applied to." If those words appear, the unused ~10 months of Year 2 subsidy (≈ $118/mo × 10 ≈ $1,180 nominal, undiscounted) likely walks.

4. Property tax & insurance (your Q4)

  • Property tax: assessed value tracks purchase price. B at $400K vs A at $420K → B's annual tax bill is lower by $20,000 × local rate. Reference rates (effective, not headline):

- 0.6% (e.g. Hawaii) → ~$120/yr
- 1.1% (national avg) → ~$220/yr (~$18/mo)
- 2.0% (e.g. Texas, parts of NJ/IL) → ~$400/yr

Your county assessor's effective rate is what binds. This pack does not carry a specific jurisdiction's rate — check the county or state DOI page for the mill rate applied to your parcel.

  • Homeowner's insurance: tied to replacement cost, not market value or purchase price. Same house under either option → roughly equal premium (small variation possible from dwelling-vs-land allocation, but immaterial).
  • Title insurance (one-time at close): lower with B, because premium is calculated on purchase price.

What each route buys

  • Option A buys ~2 years of cash-flow breathing room ($362/mo saved in Year 1, $127/mo in Year 2). It also *uses* the $480/mo Year-3 jump as the price of that breathing room.
  • Option B buys a permanently lower payment ($118/mo less than A's full rate, every year), a smaller loan ($378K → $360K), $2,000 less cash at close, slightly lower property tax, and slightly lower title insurance. The trade is paying more in Years 1–2.

If you move before Year 5 (relocation, life event, job change), A wins on cumulative cash out. If you stay past Year 5, B wins by an expanding margin. The deciding question is not the math — it's your honest probability of staying ≥ 5 years and your tolerance for the Year 3 step-up if rates don't fall.